Current conditions in Dubuque, IA

Japanese udon noodles are all about the chew, but it’s hard to replicate the texture with the dry udon available in American markets. So the cooks at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street found a solution in the Italian technique of cooking pasta only until al dente — or still quite firm. Chilling the noodles by rinsing them with ice in the strainer under cold water further firms up the texture. Even after you reheat the udon in the cooked sauce, they retain that pleasant toothsome quality. For the sauce, it’s a simple mixture of soy sauce, dried shiitake mushrooms and mirin, balanced by a little sugar. Fresh shiitake and mild-tasting baby bok choy keep the stir-fry light, and pickled ginger balances the savoriness.

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